Sometimes only chicken will do, so I’ve developed a recipe for the richest, most luxurious chicken ragu. Spoon it over pasta, polenta or gnocchi, or honestly, just tear up some crusty bread and get stuck in. Chicken thighs are slowly braised with pancetta, white wine and herbs until meltingly tender, then shredded into the luscious, flavor packed sauce.
Hi! I like to think a slow cooked ragu is one of my specialties. I have plenty on my website, but I’ve never made one with chicken before and clearly I (and you!) have been missing out.
Using the flavors from my super popular white bolognese as a starting point, I knew it would be good, but I was low-key shocked by just how delicious this turned out! After a few tests to get it perfect, this truly is a special recipe that I hope you’ll come to depend on.
Main ingredients
Chicken thighs - I use bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs. Bone-in thighs have more flavor and are much more forgiving when it comes to cooking time, staying juicy and tender. The skin and bones are discarded at the end.
Pancetta - Adds a lovely salty, savory depth to the ragu. Streaky bacon is a great substitute, or you can leave it out for a pork free version.
Soffritto - A finely chopped mixture of onion, carrot and celery forms the flavor base of the sauce. Take your time cooking it until really soft and sweet.
Fennel seeds - Chicken and fennel are a classic pairing, I urge you not to skip this ingredient!
White wine - Use a dry white wine like a pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc.
Chicken stock - Use a good quality, preferably low sodium chicken stock so you can control the seasoning.
Whole milk - Don't be surprised by the milk! It's a traditional addition to many Italian ragùs and helps create beautifully tender meat while adding richness and a lovely softness to the sauce.
Fresh herbs – Rosemary, thyme and sage are bundled together and left to infuse the sauce while the chicken braises. Tie them with kitchen twine to make them easy to remove.
Finishing touches
Butter and flour - Chicken needs much less braising time than beef or pork, so the sauce has less time to naturally thicken and reduce. Mixing butter and flour into a simple beurre manié gives the sauce some extra body at the end.
Lemon - Both the juice and zest are stirred through the finished ragu, adding freshness and brightness to balance the rich sauce.
How to make this chicken ragu
The full ingredient list and detailed method are in the recipe card below. This is a quick visual reference.
1. Brown the chicken thighs until golden brown. Set aside.
2. Cook the pancetta until golden and the fat has rendered. Set aside.
3. Cook the soffritto gently for 15 minutes.
4. Add the wine and reduce for 3-4 minutes.
5. Add the liquids and herbs then return the pancetta and chicken. Place in oven for 75 minutes.
6. Remove the chicken and shred the meat from the bones.
7. Simmer the braising liquid, skim off the excess fat and thicken with the butter and flour mixture.
8. Return the shredded chicken and finish with lemon juice and zest.
Expert tips from Emilie
- Use bone-in chicken thighs. Bone-in, skin-on thighs give the best flavor and stay juicy and tender. Skinless are absolutely fine too, but I don't recommend boneless as they cook much faster.
- Take your time with the soffritto. Finely dice the onion, carrot and celery and cook them gently until really soft and sweet. I like the vegetables super fine here so they almost disappear into the finished ragu rather than leaving you with chunks. A food processor makes this really quick.
- Skim off excess fat. Once the chicken is out of the pot, bring the braising liquid to a simmer and skim any obvious excess fat from the surface before thickening the sauce. You don't need to remove every last bit, just any obvious pools sitting on top.
- Don't make the sauce too thick. After whisking in the butter and flour mixture, you're only looking for the braising liquid to gain some body, not become a thick sauce. Remember that adding the shredded chicken back in will make the ragu feel considerably thicker.
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Common questions
Yes! Bone-in, skin-on thighs give the ragu the most flavor, but bone-in, skinless thighs will work well too. I don’t recommend boneless thighs as they cook too fast.
Absolutely. Like most ragu recipes, it’s fantastic made ahead and the flavor will only improve. Store in the fridge for up to 3 days and reheat gently on the stovetop. You can add a splash of milk or cream if it needs. Alternatively store in the freezer for up to three months.
The chicken skin and pancetta release a bit of fat during braising. Skimming the excess at the end keeps the finished sauce rich without feeling greasy. It's optional though!
I love it with a long pasta such as pappardelle or tagliatelle, but rigatoni or another short pasta shapes would also work beautifully. Use whatever you have in the cupboard!
Some other ragu recipes to try
If you loved this chicken ragu, I have a lot of other chicken pasta recipes to check out. Here are some suggestions for some other slow cooked ragus.
Did you make this recipe?
I would LOVE it if you could leave a review and star rating down below. Also please tag me on Instagram if you share a photo of the dish!
Recipe
Chicken ragu
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Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1.2 kilograms bone-in skin-on chicken thighs
- 200 grams pancetta, cut into small pieces
- 1 onion, finely diced
- 2 small carrots, finely diced
- 2 stalks celery, finely diced
- 1.5 teaspoons fennel seeds
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 1.5 cups chicken stock
- 1.5 cups whole milk
- 2 sprigs rosemary
- 2-3 sprigs thyme
- 4-5 sage leaves (bundle herbs together with string)
- Salt and pepper
For finishing
- 2 tablespoons butter, softened to room temp
- 2 tablespoons plain flour
- 2 tablespoons lemon juice
- zest of a lemon
Instructions
- Pre-heat oven to 320f (160c)
- Brown the chicken. Pat the chicken thighs dry and season well with salt and pepper. You can use two large frying pans at the same time, or work in two batches using one pan.
- Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil per pan (or per batch) over medium-high heat. Brown the thighs for 3 minutes each side, starting skin-side down, until deeply golden. You don’t need to cook them through. Remove and set aside.
- Cook the pancetta. Add the pancetta to a cold Dutch oven (or other ovenproof pot with a lid). Place over medium heat and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden and the fat has rendered.
- Remove with a slotted spoon, leaving the rendered fat behind.
- Cook the soffritto. Add the onion, carrot, celery and fennel seeds to the pot and cook gently for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the pot seems dry, add a tablespoon of olive oil.
- Add the garlic and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper in the last few minutes of cooking the soffritto.
- Reduce the wine. Pour in the wine and let it reduce gently for 3-4 minutes.
- Add the chicken stock and milk and mix well. Bring to a gentle simmer.
- Return the pancetta to the pot then nestle the herb bundle in.
- Place the chicken thighs and any accumulated juices in the pot. The liquid should cover most of them but the tops will poke out.
- Cover with the lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for 75 minutes. You are looking for the meat to pull away very easily from the bone.
- Mix the butter and flour. While the chicken is cooking, mash the softened butter and flour together with a fork until completely combined into a smooth paste. Set aside. This will be used to thicken the braising liquid at the end.
- After 75 minutes, remove the chicken thighs and discard herb bundle. Remove the skin and shred the meat from the bones with two forks. Discard bones and skin.
- Reduce the sauce. While you shred the chicken, place the pot over medium heat and bring the braising liquid to a steady simmer.
- Use a spoon to skim any fat from the surface and around edges (see video below).
- Add the flour and butter mixture to the simmering sauce and whisk in well. Simmer for 5-7 minutes, stirring regularly, until slightly thickened and glossy.
- Finish the ragu. Stir in the lemon juice and zest, then return the shredded chicken to the pot. Simmer for 2-3 minutes until heated through. Taste and season as needed.
To serve with pasta
- Allow 1 cup of ragu per per person and 100 grams of dried pasta per person.
- Heat the amount of ragu you need in a large skillet or frying pan while the pasta cooks.
- Add the cooked pasta to the ragu with a splash of pasta water. Toss over gentle heat for 1-2 minutes, until the sauce and meat coat the pasta.
- Finish with plenty of freshly grated parmesan and extra lemon zest, if desired.
Video
Notes
Hi, I'm Emilie
I've spent years testing pasta doughs, sauces, and weeknight favorites so you don't have to. Everything on The Burnt Butter Table is designed to be simple, comforting, and unbelievably delicious.
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